Three Days in Québec City

DAY 1

Set dramatically on a cliff overlooking the rushing St. Lawrence River, Québec City feels like it’s been plucked straight from Old-World France. It was founded by Gallic explorer Samuel de Champlain in 1608, and the fortified historic center still retains its vast ramparts and photogenic stone architecture, lending a fairytale air to its narrow, cobbled streets.

Exploring those streets is exactly what’s called for on the first day here — soaking up the split-level historic core and all its storybook atmosphere. Begin in the Lower Town, navigating the enticing maze of cafes, craft boutiques and galleries (multilocation Beauchamp features work by local artists, for example). Place Royale, fronted by 17th-century Notre-Dames-des-Victoires, is particularly picturesque, as is Rue du Petit-Champlain; don’t miss confectionery store La Petite Cabane à Sucre on the latter for its glut of maple-flavored delights.

At the northern end of Rue du Petit-Champlain, the city’s oldest stairway — the ominously named Breakneck Stairs, built in 1635 — connects the Lower Town with the Upper. But if tackling its 59 steps sounds daunting, simply hop on the nearby funicular; the zoom upward deposits visitors onto broad wooden boardwalk Dufferin Terrace, flecked with striped kiosks and affording sweeping views over the St. Lawrence River. Directly adjacent, the palatial figure of landmark hotel Fairmont Le Château Frontenac — which has hosted the likes of Queen Elizabeth II, Paul McCartney and Celine Dion — sweeps up into the sky. Pop in for a regal afternoon tea or an aperitif with a view in 1608 Bar. Or simply continue exploring Upper Town, taking in scenic Rue Saint-Louis and the magnificent basilica. Come dinner time, the Upper Town is bursting with atmospheric French restaurants. Truffle-laced dishes and a sublime Burgundy and Bordeaux-heavy wine list are wheeled out by dapper waiters at celebrated staple Le Saint-Amour.