Adventures in Antarctica
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Ethereal blue icebergs, pristine glaciers and vast, glistening seascapes make this part of the world one of the most unique cruises. It’s a haven for animal lovers, too — penguins, seals, whales and a myriad of birdlife all call Antarctica home — and ship captains will sometimes amend the route to maximize wildlife-spotting opportunities. Many trips to the world’s largest continent start in the Argentinian town of Ushuaia.
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Ushuaia, Argentina
USHUAIA
It’s no surprise that Argentina’s most southerly town, sandwiched between the snow-capped Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel in the dramatic Tierra del Fuego archipelago, has been nicknamed “fin del mundo,” or “end of the world.” Ushuaia is the stepping-off point for voyages to Antarctica, and there’s a palpable air of excitement as you join other adventurers getting ready for the expedition. Make sure to stop and take a photo next to the fin del mundo sign by the cruise terminal.
It’s easy to walk around the relatively compact town with its grid-like layout, and there are some interesting museums dotted about to whet your appetite for the adventure ahead. Museo del Fin del Mundo is a highlight, dedicated to the birds and nature of the unique archipelago. This moniker was penned by 16th-century explorers, who saw the flickering fires burned on the shoreline by Indigenous Selk’nam and Yaghan tribes. There’s also the Museo Maritimo y Presidio de Ushuaia, housed in an old military prison, which charts the area’s seafaring history.
Due to its isolated location, Ushuaia was the home of a penal colony between 1902 and 1947. Guests can board the vintage narrow-gauge Tren del Fin del Mundo (Train to the End of the World) to follow part of the scenic route that once transported the prisoners to cut wood in the surrounding forests. If there’s time to spare, there are also guided hikes and kayaking expeditions. Stop off at one of the many restaurants to try some typical Fuegian cuisine, such as king crab, Patagonian trout or hearty stew, guiso fueguino. Ushuaia is also a great place to stock up on any last-minute outdoor clothes for the trip, including warm hats, gloves and scarves spun from Fuegian wool.
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Whale watching
DRAKE PASSAGE
Linking Antarctica to the rest of the world, this immense and infamous body of water has been navigated by some of the world’s most famous explorers. That said, you might be surprised to discover that although it’s named after Sir Francis Drake, following his circumnavigation of the globe between 1577 and 1580, the renowned Elizabethan seafarer never actually sailed the Drake Passage — he inadvertently discovered the waterway when he drifted into the unknown route in 1578. The first person on record for sailing through it was in fact Dutchman Willem Schouten.
At 600 miles wide, with depths of up to 15,600 feet, the shortest route to Antarctica from the rest of the world has a formidable reputation for having the roughest sea conditions on Earth. Spare a thought for Anglo-Irish explorer Ernest Shackleton, who took 15 days to cross the passage in a lifeboat in 1916 after his stricken vessel Endurance became trapped in ice. While many modern-day adventurers relish the prospect of the crossing, which takes around 48 hours, others understandably feel nervous. It’s worth keeping in mind that high-tech expedition ships are more than capable of handling any waves, and while sea conditions can never be guaranteed, there are days when the passage can be so calm that it’s called the “Drake Lake.”
Striking seascapes are one of the highlights of this route, so have cameras ready at the deck in case of an iceberg or whale sighting. Birds to look out for include petrels, sheathbills, fulmars and the unmistakable mighty albatross — don’t worry, members of your cruise expedition team will be on hand to help you spot them.
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Penguins
ANTARCTICA
The breathtaking icy panorama of Antarctica is a view like no other. It’s hard to imagine how British explorer and cartographer Captain James Cook and his crew must have felt when they became the first people to cross the Antarctic Circle in 1773. As you sail into this extraordinary land, expect to see humpback, fin and giant blue whales, all of which have been known to swim alongside expedition ships that venture into their habitat.
Each day of the itinerary will bring something new, and your captain may change plans to increase potential wildlife sightings or adapt to changing weather conditions. Excursions take the form of Zodiac boat tours and landings for unforgettable close-up views of penguins, basking seals and glaciers. It’s likely you’ll witness the spectacle known as calving — when shard-like fragments of ice break off glaciers causing a loud crack. Joining you on the journey will be a number of experts, including scientists ranging from biologists, botanists, geologists, glaciologists, oceanographers and ornithologists, polar experts and researchers.
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Cape Horn, Chile
CAPE HORN
The allure of rounding legendary Cape Horn, a rocky headland on tiny Hornos Island, is among the many draws of a voyage to Antarctica. It was first discovered in 1616 by Dutch captain Willem Schouten, who was master of the 130-foot vessel Eendracht. He named it Kaap Hoorn after his home port of Hoorn in the Netherlands. As your expedition ship nears the island, which is located at the most southerly point in South America, just 400 miles from Antarctica, you can catch a glimpse of the landmark 1,394-foot rocky promontory. The southernmost point of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago of southern Chile, it marks the place where the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans meet.
The discovery of Cape Horn made a huge impact on world trade, as ships no longer had to sail through the Strait of Magellan, the subject of historical conflict between Argentina, Chile and Spain and once controlled by the Dutch East India Company. For many years, Cape Horn was noted as the halfway point from England to Australia on 19th-century clipper routes, and then commercial shipping around the Cape decreased following the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914. As you round the Cape, keep a lookout for the distinctive red and white tower of the world’s southernmost traditional lighthouse.
Experience this region aboard Viking Polaris on the 13-day Antarctic Explorer voyage. Consider Viking’s Explorer Suite, which offers a keepsake expedition jacket, luxurious king-size bed, private Nordic Balcony and a separate dining area for four. This Viking voyage is one filled to the brim with adventure.
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